Frequently Asked Questions (and answers) About Kayak Fishing.....
Plus Tips and Pointers From the Experts.  Contact Spike or a guide anytime at ckf@kayakfishing.com

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ's) About Kayak Fishing

We're always working on this page.  We appreciate your submissions for anything related to kayak fishing.   Send email to spike@kayakfishing.com with your discoveries, innovations, modifications and any good ideas you've come up with for the sport.

What's A "Slurp Gun"?

Diagram provided by Neil

What fishfinder should I use? Permanent? Portable?  Transducer mounting options?  Lowrance/Eagle, Bottomline, and Humminbird all make suitable portable fishfinders for kayak fishing.  While a portable unit can be used anywhere and anytime, portable amperage is limiting and many kayak anglers prefer to install sonar permanently using a small 12 volt battery for a power source.  In that case, Raytheon, Apelco and all the major name sonars can be used.   The following is a reader contribution on permanent installation.

Fishfinder Installation 101 By Mark "Sea Wolf" Hall

In response to the many inquiries about fishfinder installation I decided to document the installation of my unit on my Scupper Pro and publish it here for all to see.

Finder and battery selection

1. Price.
2. Power requirements. Only 250 mA.
3. I think the yellow accents look good with my blue Scupper Pro!

Read this before you start!  This is usually where the manufacturers tell you about the things that can go wrong and how you may possibly injure yourself or your family if you don’t follow directions. I only have on thing to say: "It is EASY!" If it seems to be difficult, then you are doing it wrong. I finished this install in twenty minutes with nothing more than a screwdriver, a box wrench, and a cheapo cordless drill that was having problems with the trigger.

Start here  OK, I lied. There is another element that I took into consideration as I looked at the different brands. This unit has a "shoot through the hull" transducer. That means that it can be mounted inside the hull and it will take reading through the hull. No holes to cut! By the way, less (holes) is more (better).

1. Cut a box or brackets out of the foam to fit your battery.
2. Find a convenient place within the hull to hold the battery. Depending on the weight of your particular battery, you may want to improve the balance of your kayak with the placement. I just tried to get it right at the center point. It is almost under my butt.
3. Rough up the area with the 80 grit sandpaper. (No, not your butt!)
4. I tried the silicon glue for this part but it didn’t stick to the foam so I opted for the spray-on contact cement. 3M makes some good stuff. Spray it on both the roughed up area inside the hull and on the bottom of your battery box. Wait till both sides are almost dry and then carefully attach it to the hull. I say carefully because once this stuff is down, it is down for good.
5. Lastly, set the battery in place and use one of those tiny bungee cords to secure it.

The Fishfinder  There are a variety of mounting products that are suitable for kayaks. (edit-The Johnny Bar) Another option is the various mounts that are at all the marine hardware stores. Whatever your choice, place the fishfinder screen in a place where it will be visible, secure, and out of the way. I chose to mount mine directly to the forward hatch without any after market mounting devices. It is out of the way. It is visible. It is a lot cheaper to replace a screwed up hatch than to replace a screwed up hull! Mine comes off very easily and by putting the stainless bolts back through the holes and bolting them down, the hatch is watertight. So far my access to the hatch has been fine but I haven’t hauled in any giant threshers or anything.

Now it's time to go fishing!

What kayak is right for me?  The kayak that fits you comfortably.  It should allow mobility in the deck or cockpit, afford plenty of on deck or internal storage and have a deck design which allows for accessorizing without compromising the paddle stroke and non fishing applications of the craft.  Stability, a term used mostly by kayak sales people, is not a significant factor in the models popularly used for fishing.

What's the cheapest and easiest way to get a Mexican fishing license and kayak (boat) permit?  Contact the........The correct ministry is now...  Mexican Department of Fisheries 2550 Fifth Ave. Suite #15 San Diego, CA 92103-6622.  The phone # is (619) 233-4324, FAX (619)233-0344  Give a call, then send in your application fees with money order only. Thanks to "Mr. Limpet" for originally providing this update.

How to ID (red) California rockfish-Canary and Vermilion and Yelloweye...oh my! by Jayna Schaaf-DaSilva, Marine Biologist (article harvested from CDFG Bulletin) One of the most diverse and successful groups of fishes in the eastern Pacific is the rockfishes (genus Sebastes), represented by more than 60 species in California waters. All rockfishes have a set of characteristics that distinguish them from other fishes, most notably the prominent head spines. Rockfishes have five spines on the rear cheek area, a continuous dorsal fin with 12–15 spines and 9–16 soft rays, and an anal fin with three spines and 5–9 soft rays. Rockfishes are generally long-lived, slow growing, late maturing, and mostly residential fishes.This combination of characteristics makes rockfishes extremely vulnerable to overfishing.

In addition to these life history characteristics, increased fishing pressure and unfavorable oceanic conditions have combined to reduce some populations of rockfish to extremely low levels. Two examples of important species under pressure are the canary (Sebastes pinniger) and the yelloweye (Sebastes ruberrimus) rockfishes. Canary rockfish have a potential lifespan of 60 years or more, while the yelloweye rockfish can live to be at least 118 years old. They mature relatively late in life. NOAA Fisheries has designated these species as "overfished" and the federal Groundfish Fishery Management Plan mandates actions to rebuild their stocks to a healthy condition in the shortest time possible. In order to allow these stocks to rebuild, it is illegal to keep individuals of these species. Stocks are not expected to be rebuilt until 2017 and 2074, respectively. Unintentionally caught canary or yelloweye rockfishes should be returned to the water immediately to increase their chances of survival.

It can be challenging to identify any rockfish species, including prohibited species, when many of them are the reddish-colored and look very similar. In the past, anglers have typically misidentified canary (a prohibited fish) as vermilion rockfish (a permissible fish). The best way to distinguish a canary rockfish is by the bright orange coloration. The color can be compared to that of a road construction cone, a soda can of orange Crush®, or a bowl of Cheetos®. In northern California, the orange color pattern may be more reddish. However, all canary rockfish have a broad white or light grey band along the lateral line of the body that extends from the head to the tail. Canary rockfish also have a white belly, a slanted triangular-shaped anal fin, and a slightly forked tail fin. In smaller individuals, a dark grey or black spot can often be found at the base of the dorsal fin, about halfway down the body. When all else fails, rubbing the thumb against the chin of the fish will give a clue; canary rockfish have a smooth jaw.

Vermilion rockfish are actually quite distinct from canary rockfish, once one knows what to look for. Vermilion rockfish possess a much deeper red color: envision the red of a very ripe tomato. Vermilion rockfish lack the broad white or grey band on the body, but may have a partial band, and the belly is never bright white. The anal fin is rounded in vermilion rockfish, and the tail fin is straight. Many individuals have black borders on the fins. The upper (dorsal) part of the body is mottled with dark grey to black speckles, especially in younger fish. Again, rubbing the chin of the fish can help distinguish it; vermilion rockfish have a sandpaper-like roughness to the chin.

Some anglers misidentify yelloweye (a prohibited fish) as vermilion rockfish (a permissible fish). Yelloweye rockfish reach a larger maximum size than either canary or vermilion rockfishes, and they have very big, strong head spines. The yelloweye rockfish goes though a rather dramatic color change with growth. Juveniles are reddish-orange with two solid white lines running the length of the body, one along the lateral line and one below it. During transition, the body is red with only one white stripe (the bottom stripe disappears first). Large, mature individuals lack the white stripes completely, and are more orange-colored with pinkish fins. The fins are tipped with black throughout growth. The yelloweye rockfish, not surprisingly, has prominent golden-yellow eyes. There is a rasp-like ridge of spines above the eyes of large individuals. Like the canary rockfish, the chin of the yelloweye rockfish is smooth.

With practice and patience, identifying the characteristics of canary, vermilion, and yelloweye rockfishes can become a straightforward task. A combination of characteristics such as the coloration of the lateral line, shape of the fins, chin texture, and body color can be used to identify each species of these three "red" rockfishes. Proper identification is the key to reducing the accidental harvest and ultimately rebuilding the California stocks of overfished species in a minimum amount of time.

For more information about canary, vermilion and yelloweye rockfishes, visit the following Web sites:

• Frequently Asked Questions Regarding the Oct 1, 2007 Recreational In-Season Groundfish Closure of the Northern and North-Central Management Areas: www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/groundfishcentral/pdfs/faqs_groundfish.pdf
• A Primer on Groundfish: www.pcouncil.org/groundfish/gfprimer.html

For full-color illustrations of these rockfishes, click here.

How do I avoid backlash when I cast?  Thanks to Ed Whited  for providing an easy primer on casting an open face reel.  The information applies to Shimano Corsair & Calcutta, Daiwa Millionaire, Abu Abu Garcia Ambassador and similar reels.

I have two Corsairs, both of them are the new versions. I have caught yellowtail, bass and barracuda with them.
They cast great and the drag system is the same as the Calcutta's.
Always watch your jig when you cast, If you do not stop the spool with your thumb when the jig hits the water, you will get a
backlash. To help with your casting, and/or minimize your backlashes, make sure that your spool adjustment is correct. This is
the knurled cap on the right hand side plate. The purpose of the adjustment is to take the play out of the side to side movement
of the spool. I like to tighten the knob until I can no longer here a "Click" or sound as I try to move the spool side to side with
my thumb. Too tight and you will limit your casting distance. Always watch your jig when you cast, If you do not stop the spool with your thumb when the jig hits the water, you will get a backlash.
The next item is the proper adjustment of the "Weights" on the left-hand side of the spool. These weights are located on the
left-hand side of the spool. You have to disassemble the reel to access them. Unscrew the two slotted knobs holding the right
hand side plate to the frame and remove the spool from the reel. Look at the left-hand side of the spool. There is a series of 5
(as I recall) weights on the left side of the spool arranged in a circular or star pattern. The weights can be pushed toward the
center of the spool's shaft to turn off the weight or pushed outward toward the spool's rim to turn them on. Be careful not to damage the weights. I would turn them all on until your thumb becomes more educated and you can then start turning some of the weights off to lengthen your casting distance. When you re-assembly your reel, make sure the release (free-spool) button is in the up position or it will not engage the release mechanism properly. This will be apparent by the button remaining in the down or disengaged position and not engaging when the reel handle is turned. The easiest way for me to prevent this is to turn the reel upside down so gravity pulls the release button into the proper position as I reassemble the reel.
The issue of the line being caught between the spool and frame is a function of the line diameter, spool looseness (see second
paragraph) and backlashes. Everyone, no matter how experienced, has backlashes at times. Experience and proper adjustments will minimize the backlash frequency. Try not to use line of a diameter smaller than what the reel is designed for. With smaller diameter line the frequency of catching the line between the spool and the frame increases and the line's tolerance to damage decreases.          Ed Whited

Kayak Care:
How do I get tar off my kayak?                                                               

"Years ago I suggested on this web site, orange hand cleaner for removal of oil/tar. Spike emailed
me asking that I keep an eye on the cleaned area for signs of "reactions". I still have the OK
Scrambler. The area cleaned looks the same as the rest of the kayak. I do store the kayak
indoors and use "303" protectant about once per month. Perhaps the extra care has been
helpful."  Thanks to Bill Hartman, Oxnard California.

Can I install the CKF Paddle Clips on kayaks with rounded sides like The Ride, Prowler and Malibu Kayaks? Yes.....You can install the CKF Paddle Clips on the Prowler and other "rounded" kayaks by flexing the base to conform to the hull. Stainless nuts and bolts are recommended when access to the interior is afforded. Snug the paddle clip base down gradually alternating back and forth between each fastener. Stainless sheet metal screws or rivets will work when a "blind" fastener is needed. The Paddle Clips should be installed at room temperature or warmer for an easy application.

Subscribe to California DFG Marine Region News Service for e-mail notification of ocean-related news and information at www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/subscribe.asp

Sit on or sit in? 

To rudder or not to rudder?

Hatches vs. tankwells vs. open deck

Rod holders

How do I install FLUSH MOUNT ROD HOLDERS on my kayak?   Thanks to Wali for his excerpt from the Idiot's Guide.  How? Poke large hole(s) in your perfectly good Kayak and set it in place with some stick-um and screws. Seriously though, it really is about that simple. A 2 1/4" hole saw works real well to poke the hole and I like 3m 4200 as a sealant. Don't drill the screw holes until you put the holder in place and rotate it to the position you want your rod to point in and it fits inside your hull (I shortened mine some). Be careful and don't over tighten the screws (just enough to pull it almost flush and make the sealant ooze (wipe clean) Make sure you use stainless steel hardware. Most come without a bottom and you need to cap it. I sanded mine down some and fit an abs cap (2" I think) on it and sealed it   I have three. Hope that helps

How do I keep fresh fish fresh?

How do I transport my kayak? On the car top and in the pickup?

How should my kayak be stored?

What roof racks should I buy?

How should I modify my kayak for fishing and where does everything go?

What kayak wheels are available?

Can we talk wetsuits?

Where do the fish go?

PFD's

Paddles? 1 piece 2 piece?  Aluminum?  Fiberglass? Carbon

What rods and reels are the best?

How do I get started?

How do I keep live bait alive?

Where are the best access spots in my fishery?

What kind of safety gear should I have?

What should I look for in a used kayak? A summary of important considerations from Judge

Brittleness - if any of the plastic feels brittle (from being in the sun or just plain old) do not buy - and maybe don't even take as
a gift - it's up to you on that one. You need to know what a new kayak feels like before you start checking old ones. 

Structure - look for modifications, holes and visibly deep scrapes in the hull. If you are concerned - ask the seller if you can fill it up with water. By doing this on dry sidewalk, you should be able to tell if it leaks (and there will probably be a lot more pressure on the hull when it's full of water than it will be when you are on it in the water). Modifications - any holes put into the hull are a possible source of leaks. Check them out. Real small holes (like for pop rivets) can be filled with plastic and a heat gun (from Home depot), hot glue or even some shoe goo. Look it over top and bottom -particularly to see how the wear is around the supper holes on the bottom - a place of particular wear as you land on the beach.

Form - The plastic boat can be misshapen as a result of being tied to a car or truck in hot weather. They say in the OK book, that they will regain their old shape if allowed to heat and cool on a level surface with no tie downs. If you find a boat that seems to have cooled to the wrong shape, you may or may not be able to get it right again. Also, the booklet says that hanging them by their handles can make them warp. Again, I don't know if they will "right" themselves if allowed to heat and cool on a flat surface - Maybe this is a question for a dealer or manufacturer.

PVC Kayak Cart*

*You need to add "T's" to the top of this design to cradle the hull.  Pad the top of the T bars with a pool noodle or similar foam wrap.  Based on kayak manufacturers recommendations, we do not recommend supporting your kayak through the scupper holes.